Hydra: Time travel on the idyllic Greek isle

A TRAVEL GUIDE TO HYDRA ISLAND, GREECE

last updated: May 2023

Hydra is small, charming and historic. It will only take you 1.5 hours to get there from Athens but it will feel like you have been transferred to another era. The town is just a handful of charming neoclassical buildings and stone paved alleys arrayed amphitheatrically around a quaint port; you’ll fall in love with it at first sight. However, don’t let the laidback atmosphere fool you. There is more to Hydra than meets the eye. Rich in maritime tradition and revolutionary spirit, Hydra truly punched above its weight during Greece’s fight for independence against the Ottomans in the 19^th century. The islanders still proudly raise the revolutionary flag every morning in all important buildings and the port.

A hotspot for sophisticated international travellers since the 1960s, this island is actually one of the first to put the Greek islands on the travellers’ map. Yet, it has somehow managed to maintain the charm of an understated, elegant destination. Welcome to Hydra!

WHAT TO DO IN HYDRA?

TAKE A STROLL AROUND HYDRA TOWN & ADMIRE THE ISLAND’S HISTORIC SEAFARING PROWESS

The port and town of Hydra is laid out amphitheatrically on the footsteps of a hill. The traditional architecture and town planning will definitely convince you to spend a couple of hours … or a couple of days exploring the car-free cobbled streets and photographing the beautiful pastel hued buildings.

Hydra is a truly understated destination in all its forms. As a traveller, walking around the quaint streets while being overtaken by donkeys carrying groceries and giggling children, you will probably not realise the significance of the island in Greek history. Make sure you read the various commemorative plaques you will find along your way. They narrate snippets of history of global maritime glory and national resistance during Greece’s War of Independence in the 1820s.

The birthplace of many wealthy shipowners and legendary sea captains, Hydra was one of the key naval forces who contributed in the country’s liberation from the Ottoman rule in the early 19th century. The most prestigious buildings in the town were indeed the centre stage of wartime meetings amongst the island’s finest ship owners and captains preparing for the next naval battle. One of those buildings houses today the Academy for Commercial Shipping which is the oldest in the world!

A SNIPPET OF HISTORY -THE HYDRIOT FLAG

While walking around Hydra, you may notice a red and blue flag raised in many buildings and boats. Many islands during the Greek revolution in the 1820s had their own flags to mark their fight for independence.

In the Hydriot flag, the face of Themistoklis, the naval commander of the Athenian fleet who defeated the Persians in ancient times, commemorates the glory of the past and the anchor represents the maritime prowess of the present. At the bottom of the flag, the ancient Greek text is the historic phrase that fearless Spartan mothers told their sons while handing them their shield before going to war in ancient Sparta, ‘Either come back with it, or on it’. 

EXPLORE HYDRA’S MODERN ARTISTIC FLAIR 

Fast forward to the 1960s and Hydra is a bohemian paradise for artists. Leonard Cohen owned a house here and his description of life here, still seems relevant. ‘There is nowhere in the world where you can live like you can in Hydra, and that includes Hydra’.  The island is eye candy; even when you are there, it is too perfect and precious to feel real…

This artistic heritage is still alive in today’s more cosmopolitan Hydra. During the summer, art exhibitions and installations are scattered in various locations around the island. It is worth visiting the DESTE Foundation Project Space if only for its beautiful location and solitary stone building. It is situated on a cliff’s edge and overlooks the vibrant blue sea. 

ENJOY A DAY OF SWIMMING & SUNBATHING IN HYDRA’S BEACHES

In most beaches you’ll find sun loungers, umbrellas and a taverna or beach bar (or both). We visited in late July and the water was quite warm and crystal clear. It’s worth noting that all beaches in Hydra have pebbles, but one. 

MANDRAKI BEACH

Mandraki, the only sandy beach on the island, is also the only one to the east of the town. Typical to Hydra, this is a historic place. The bay served as a shipyard from the middle of the 18^th century for the boats used in the war against the Ottomans. The tower at the heart of the elegant beach club that stands there today was built by one of the island’s famous revolutionary heroes.

Anyway, Mandraki Beach Resort is a delightful, relaxed place to spend the day; we rented an umbrella and sunbeds and had a scrumptious lunch at the restaurant. You can access Mandraki on foot which is what we did. I dare say it is a rather long walk, especially on a hot day. So, for the return trip, we asked the nice people at the beach club to call a taxi boat. I highly recommend you do the same if you do not care for the long walk! Nevertheless, if you do go on foot, you can pop by DESTE Foundation Project Space on your way. 

BISTI & AGIOS NICOLAOS

To the west of the town, there is a series of bays that feature mostly organised beaches. They can be accessed on foot or for the ones further away, by local boats which work on a schedule. We visited the two beaches at the southwestern tip of the island, Bisti and Agios Nicolaos (St Nicolas) and really enjoyed swimming in the crystal-clear warm waters. Both beaches featured umbrellas and sun loungers for hire and a beach bar. Other than that, there is nothing else built there, so they still felt fairly remote. 

ENJOY THE SUNSET WHILE DIVING FROM THE ROCKS

In the western edge of the town there are various sunset view points; there are also two famous swimming spots and several elegant seaside restaurants. Stepping down from the seaside road towards the rocks, you will find Spilia and Hydronetta. Both feature bars and nooks with sun loungers carved into the rocks and ladders to get into the water.

There is an undeniable sense of time travel when you jump into the sea and swim into the deep blue waters while watching the ferries mooring into Hydra’s port… It’s like a postcard from the ‘60s, with tanned young men and women sunbathing on their towels on the rocks while enjoying a Campari orange. Everyone waiting impatiently for sunset… When in Hydra, time travel is inevitable. 

While people in their swimsuits still jump into the water, well dressed families, couples and groups of friends populate the front tables at Sunset restaurant for dinner. Arrive early enough (at least for Greek standards) and you will get a front row seat into nature’s way of ending another day in paradise. 

POP TO THE MAINLAND FOR A PERFORMANCE IN THE ANCIENT THEATRE OF EPIDAVROS

The open air amphitheatre of Epidavros is one of the best preserved ancient Greek structures in existence. This 4^th century BC, 14000 seat capacity theatre is an undisputed highlight renowned for its amazing acoustics; a coin dropped in the theatre’s centre can be heard from the highest seat. Imagine sitting on the ancient pews, under the night sky, on a warm night, experiencing the same wonder as people did over 2000 years ago!

During the summer there are several performances of ancient Greek tragedies or comedies. No need to worry about not understanding Greek -there is a screen with English subtitles. There are several companies that can organise the boat to the mainland (port of Ermioni) and taxi to Epidavros. Check with your hotel -performances are usually in the weekends. The boat journey to Ermioni takes 30min and then it is about an hour drive inland to the theatre. All performances are in the evening but boats from Ermioni to Hydra do run until quite late.

While it will take you more than 1.5h each way, I absolutely recommend visiting Epidavros. An all time classic Greek experience! If there is no performance or you are not interested in sitting through a performance, it is also totally worth going on a day trip. This way, you will be able to admire the theatre in daylight. I visited Epidavros on a school trip (yes, I am Greek) and if a bunch of 16-year olds were impressed by an ancient monument, I bet you will be too!

Boating, horseback riding and hiking in Hydra

Want to do more? Really? Ok. Check with your hotel or stroll around the town and you will definitely find an office or kiosk to arrange:

• Renting a rib or a sailing boat with a captain for a day and swim in secluded beaches. If you are visiting with extended family or a group of friends, this will be more affordable. 
• A sunset cruise.
• Exploring the island on horseback.
• Hiking the island’s seaside or mountain trails. 
• Scuba diving -there is a diving centre on the island.

Have a look here for useful information on the island, sights and activities.

Special events in Hydra

Regatta | End of March, weekend nearest to the 25th of March & end of October, weekend nearest to the 28th of October

Biannual sailing race from Faliro port in Athens to Hydra, and back (36 nautical miles each way). 

Miaoulia | Last week of June 

Miaoulia is the biggest annual event of the island. It is dedicated to Admiral A. Miaoulis and commemorates the events and people that played a major role in the success of the Greek revolution of 1821. Celebrations include exhibitions, musical events, theatrical performances, games, folk dances, boating and sport. The festivities culminate in the enactment of the battle of Gerontas with the burning of the Ottoman flagship and firework display. 

HOW TO GET AROUND IN HYDRA?

Hydra is delightfully car-free. The ways to go around are on foot and taxi boat. During the summer, there are plenty of local public boats which take people to the beaches further away from town.  

WHERE TO STAY IN HYDRA?

There are quite a few good options for accommodation in Hydra for a variety of budgets. We spent four days in Orloff Boutique Hotel and loved it. 

The historic mansion that houses Orloff Boutique Hotel was built in 1796 and is situated in the town, just a 5-minute walk from the port. Apart from the spacious rooms tastefully decorated with antique furniture, there are so many aspects of traditional architecture that we loved! The sunny patio with the delightful nook to have your coffee and plan the day, the leafy internal courtyard that leads you to the small breakfast room, the garden with the traditional well and bougainvillea trees… Last but not least, Greek breakfast was yummy and the hostess gave us all the right tips for the island. 

WHERE & WHAT TO EAT IN HYDRA?

As I mentioned previously, Sunset restaurant is the elegant seaside option for admiring the sunset over a glass of chilled Greek wine and fresh seafood. Mandraki Beach resort is another elegant seaside option to have lunch but also a romantic, secluded dinner (they will arrange a boat for you). We enjoyed our meals in both. 

In town and around the port, there is a variety of restaurants, traditional tavernas, ice cream parlours and coffee shops to keep you going for months, as well as few cocktail bars. We had dinner at two of the tavernas in the port and enjoyed the cuisine and service in both. I am not ashamed to say that I was having too much fun and forgot to note down the names! Not to worry, though. There are plenty of great options to choose from.

Last but not least, one of the (many) highlights of our days in Hydra was the post swim aperitif (or cold beer) on the director’s chairs on the pier in Papagalos, on the west side of the port. It’s all about the simple pleasures in life!  

HOW MANY DAYS SHOULD I STAY IN HYDRA? 

Due to Hydra’s close proximity to Athens, you can easily visit for a weekend, especially if you are primarily visiting Athens and / or you are visiting during winter / early spring / late autumn.

However, we stayed in Hydra for 4 nights in July and I wish we could have stayed more! You probably have realised by now that there are plenty of things to do in Hydra. So, you can definitely stay for 4 days, a full week or longer and slip into the blissfully slow pace of island life. 

HOW TO GET TO HYDRA? ISLAND HOPPING TIPS & ITINERARIES

It is super easy to get to Hydra. It is a short (about 1.5h) hydrofoil or catamaran ride away from Athens’ main port, Piraeus.

Island hopping: Hydra & Spetses classic combo

Hydra is on the same route as Spetses, another island which is definitely worth visiting. The two islands are less than an hour apart, so you can pop to Spetses for a day visit. There are several boats throughout the day, every day during the summer, but I would recommend booking in advance. 

Nevertheless, my recommendation is to stay in Spetses for a couple of nights rather than just visit for a day.

READ MORE:
Travelling to the Greek islands -How to book ferries & flights
Travelling to the Greek islands -Athens airport & ports FAQs

Our trip from London to Hydra & Spetses:

We travelled from London to Hydra and Spetses on a 9-day holiday: 5 days of annual leave + 2 weekends. Our stay was equally split between the two islands.

We flew from London to Athens on a Friday evening flight (both British Airways and Aegean Airlines offer one). We arrived in Athens at around 3-4am -tiring, I know. However, the airport in Athens does not shut down during the night so we spent a few hours in a bakery there. We then took a taxi to Piraeus (about 45min) where we got on the morning hydrofoil to Hydra. On the way back, we took a midday hydrofoil from Spetses to Athens and an evening flight back to London. Sounds complicated but it really is not too bad. The moment you step foot on the island, you will be instantly rejuvenated! 

Hydra / Spetses + Peloponnese peninsula road trip

Lastly, another great idea that came highly recommended from an Italian friend of mine is to combine Hydra with a road trip to the Peloponnese peninsula.

Starting from Athens, drive over the Isthmus of Corinth (Corinth canal) and visit the ancient theatre of Epidavros. Afterwards, you can take the boat to Hydra from Ermioni (where you will have to leave the car) or to Spetses from the port of Kosta. Once you are back on the mainland, why not explore the historical city of Nafplion for a day or two? Lastly, on your way back to Athens, make sure to pop to the archaeological site of Mycanae. A road trip for culture vultures!

FINAL THOUGHTS -WHY VISIT HYDRA?

As you may know, I am Greek, and us Greeks like to exchange opinions on the islands we have visited; always eager to find the next best thing! Naturally, with so many Greek islands, the bar is set high! Nevertheless, I have not met anyone who did not absolutely love Hydra. Filled with history and beauty, this is an understated, elegant destination that will make you rejoice to have discovered this stunning corner of the world…