Visiting Havana must be one of the most common travel bucket list items. In fact, it’s probably one of the few places in the world that tops bucket lists of all sorts of travellers. Whether you are an adventure junkie or culture vulture, luxury or budget traveller, history aficionado or just love the Caribbean vibes, Havana will keep you busy and happy during a short or longer stay. For that reason, and so many others, despite Cuba’s ups and downs, Havana has never stopped being one of the most legendary travel destinations one can ever visit.
There are so many historical, cultural and architectural delights to explore in Havana. There are also a lot of opportunities for enjoying visual and performing arts before indulging in a Cuban coffee or refreshing cocktail! Here are the best things to see and do in Havana, Cuba.
HOW TO GET AROUND IN HAVANA
The best way to get around Havana is by walking, especially within the central core of Havana Vieja, Habana Centro and Vedado where most sights and areas of interest are within a short distance from each other.
Coco taxis are also a super fun choice for short distances. These are tricycles that have a seat for two passengers behind the driver and the vehicle is surrounded by a spherical bright yellow cover. You will know them when you see them! For longer distances, grab one of the many (traditional) taxis that pass by. When jumping into a taxi, consider chatting to the driver and agreeing a price, as not all taxis have a meter, though prices are generally quite reasonable.
Public buses are also a very affordable option, though I haven’t tried them as they looked quite busy. If you are going all in with the local experiences, they are probably worth a try!
WHERE TO STAY IN HAVANA
Havana has a variety of accommodation options ranging from large international chain hotels, smaller hotels and hostels as well as casas particulares (private rooms, apartments or houses available to tourists for short lets).
When we were booking our Havana trip, a great location was our primary focus. In retrospective, staying in Havana Vieja was an excellent decision since most things worth seeing were within walking distance and, as you will read in this blog post, the area is incredibly charming.
Due to its very convenient location at the heart of Havana Vieja and its charming ambience, we stayed in El Meson de la Flota, a small 5-room guest room over a Spanish restaurant. Our room was extremely spacious, prettily decorated and very affordable too. The whole ambience with the nautical themed 19th century furnishings and the restaurant downstairs made us feel like we were in a fantasy novel, where the bard would come and sing ‘…toss a coin to your Witcher…’! We even got to see a live flamenco show one night (which admittedly felt a bit odd since we were in Cuba, not Spain, but still, quite fun)!
EXPLORING HAVANA VIEJA
Havana Vieja, or Old Havana, is where most visitors start their Cuban travels, and for good reason. Its graceful colonial architecture, a delightful blend of Hispanic and Caribbean styles, dates back to the 16th century, making Havana Vieja the best preserved colonial city in the Americas. For some 350 years, until the 1860s, this was the entire city. Today, it is only a part of the Cuban capital which is home to 2.1 million Habaneros. Along with the city’s fortifications, Havana Vieja is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Havana Vieja features several small and large museums and exhibition spaces as well as many educational and administrative buildings. This is also where most travellers stay and walk around. As a result, there are quite a few polished businesses; their marketing, decor and general presentation is delightfully old fashioned. While the number of residents is not as high as it used to be, there are still many locals who call its beautiful colonial buildings home. There is fresh laundry hanging from many crumbling balconies and quite a few open windows and doors from where one can take a pick into a modest Cuban home.
THE STATE OF THE BUILDINGS IN HAVANA VIEJA
While walking around the streets of Havana, we saw so many stunning buildings in dire need of restoration. I guess that’s the postcard picture of the city, isn’t it? Their beauty, although faded, still echoes that Havana was once the Caribbean’s most brightly shining jewel. In my humble opinion, it still is!
Nevertheless, we were pleasantly surprised by the amount of buildings that have been or were in the process of being restored and returned into their original glorious state. Thankfully, the restoration process of the crumbling colonial mansions seems meticulous and the development plans modest. This is not surprising really, as we noticed that Cubans love and respect anything that has to do with culture and the arts. This innate interest along with the slow pace of all things that richer countries consider ‘progress’, are actually doing Havana Vieja a favour. While some restored old towns around the world look like Disneyland, Havana Vieja looks like… itself and, even in its worst day, it’s stunning.
DISCOVERING THE FOUR SQUARES OF HAVANA VIEJA
Havana Vieja’s four main squares, Plaza de la Catedral, Plaza Vieja, Plaza de San Francisco de Asis and Plaza de Armas, are a must-see for everyone visiting the city. There will usually be some sort of an event going on or at the very least there will be some very talented musicians performing at some point during the day in at least one of them! The architecture of the surrounding buildings is stunning and there are cafes and restaurants near all four squares as well.
You can easily see all four squares in one morning or one afternoon as they are all located just a very short walk from the other. Following Calle Mercaderes is always a good bet to get from Plaza de la Catedral to Plaza Vieja; it is one of the prettiest and best-restored streets in the old town. Nevertheless, it’s always worth taking your time to check out the side streets, admire the fabulous architecture and have small pit stops to soak in the atmosphere.
A STROLL AROUND PLAZA DE LA CATEDRAL
La Plaza de la Catedral was the last square to be built in Old Havana. This stunning square got its name from the baroque-style Havana Cathedral which graces its northern edge. Both the cathedral and the square date back to the 18th century. Make sure to pop inside the cathedral if there is no service; it’s beautiful.
Apart from the Cathedral, there are good looking colonial buildings everywhere you look around the square, most of them restored. It’s worth popping into Museo de Arte Colonial inside the Palacio de los Condes de Casa Bayona. It features colonial furniture and decorative art. We loved the room dedicated to the city’s famous vitrales (stained glass windows) as well as the distinctive twin doors known as mamparas.
If you have an interest in art and artesania, it’s worth spending some time exploring the streets just off the square, as there are plenty of exhibition spaces and art and craft workshops. The most famous exhibition space is the Centro Wifredo Lam (Contemporary Art Center Wifredo Lam). It exhibits works of artists from Africa, Middle East, Asia, Latin America and the Caribbean and promotes the work of celebrated Cuban painter Wifredo Lam.
Lastly, there are plenty of cafes and restaurants on and around the square. Perhaps the most famous venue nearby is La Bodeguita Del Medio, one Ernest Hemingway’s favourite haunts. While the legendary bar is nowadays frequented mostly by tourists rather than bohemian artists and writers, the mojitos we had were indeed good. To be honest though, I don’t think we had a bad (or even mediocre) cocktail throughout our whole stay in Cuba. Anyway, if you are a fan of Hemingway, a quick drink in La Bodeguita Del Medio might be a good idea!
A STROLL AROUND PLAZA DE SAN FRANCISCO DE ASIS
With a variety of beautiful buildings on three sides and the seafront to the east, Plaza de San Francisco de Asis is another landmark of Old Havana that is worth having a stroll around. The square got its name from the Convent of San Fransisco de Asis, one of the most prominent buildings in the vicinity.
A short walk to the south and you will reach Museo de Ron (Rum Museum). Havana Club runs this museum and a typical visit includes an informative tour about the rum making process as well as rum tasting. Unfortunately, we visited the neighbourhood quite late during the day, so we missed it. However, given Havana’s Club reputation I’d assume that it’s probably worth doing if you love your rum!
A STROLL AROUND PLAZA VIEJA
Plaza Vieja was built in the 1500s to create a space for bullfights and fiestas. Its buildings date back to the 17th, 18th and 19th square making this one of the most architecturally eclectic plazas in Havana, and certainly one of its prettiest. While walking around the square make sure to look up and notice the graceful stained glass windows in Casa del los Condes de Jaruco, home to the Cuban Fund for Cultural Products.
Today, almost all of the beautiful buildings that surround the square have been renovated. Many of them feature cafes, bars and restaurants. Plaza Vieja is indeed the perfect pitstop for an energising coffee or refreshing cocktail and a bit of people watching. Children playing ballgames, travellers taking photographs, a passing local band perfectly performing another Buena Vista Social Club song and locals getting on with their everyday lives. There is a social character to Plaza Vieja that adds a great deal to the wonderful surroundings.
A STROLL AROUND PLAZA DE ARMAS
Plaza de Armas is Havana’s oldest square and the focus for much of the street life of the restored city.
On the east side of the square, you’ll find El Templete, a Doric style temple built in 1828 to commemorate that here, in November 1519, under a ceiba tree, the first mass in Havana took place. Every year, in the 16th of November, Habaneros fill the square to perform a similar ritual around the current ceiba tree and celebrate the founding of the city.
On the west side of the square, there’s the Palacio de los Capitanes Generales which houses the Museo de la Ciudad (City Museum). Originally built as the home of the Spanish Governor, this beautiful example of baroque architecture has also served as a presidential mansion and the mayor’s office. Today, it features an impressive collection of colonial artefacts and the original King of Spain’s Hall. The museum has a modest entrance fee. Our visit was quick, mostly to admire the fabulous architecture, but it’s probably worth catching a guided tour. The leafy inner courtyard feels like heaven on a hot day!
A WALK AROUND CASTILLO DE LA REAL FUERZA (CASTLE OF THE ROYAL FORCE)
Just to the north of Plaza de Armas is the Castillo de la Real Fuerza, the oldest building in Havana.
Completed in 1577, this castle, complete with canons, drawbridges and a moat, defended Havana and its precious port from pirates. Today, it makes for a fun 1-2 hour visit. Whilst there, you can have a look at the bronze figure of La Giraldilla de la Habana, the city’s symbol. The one at the top of the watchtower (used as a weather vane) is a replica; the original resides in Museo de la Ciudad.
A WALK DOWN CALLE OBISPO
A walk down Calle Obispo is a delightful way of crossing the old town east to west and getting from Plaza de Armas and the port all the way to Paseo del Prado. The street features many restored colonial buildings and good looking shops and is one of the most visited streets in Havana Vieja. One of the most notable stops along Calle Obispo is Drogeria Johnson (Johnson Drugstore), a replica of a famous old pharmacy and a charming small museum (free entry). Apart from that, there are clothes and accessories shops as well as workshops from local artists.
The western end of Calle Obispo will lead you to another famous haunt of E. Hemingway, legendary bar El Floridita. Apart from its convenient location, live music and past clientele, the bar is known as the birthplace of the daiquiri. As a result, it’s a permanent stop on the tourist trail!
EXPLORING CENTRAL HAVANA
As you move west from the port and the four squares of Havana Vieja, you will notice that the buildings become taller and do not feature the Spanish colonial style anymore. We are now in central Havana and there is a variety of sights for travellers to explore here too. To the east, amongst the streets closest to Havana Vieja, you will find the Paseo de Prado, the Capitolio and the city’s most famous museums. To the north, there’s Havana’s famous seafront, the Malecon. Finally, to the southwest, there’s the Plaza de la Revolucion and the Monument Jose Marti where the governmental brain of modern Havana meets its revolutionary heart.
Central Havana is truly a melting pot of architectural styles and a testament to the influence that countries and personalities of different ideological and political views have tried to exert. Apparently, there are restoration plans for the historical buildings all around here too. For the time being, most of this area features crumbling facades of various architectural styles of the 19th and early 20th century.
A QUICK PHOTO OF EL EDIFICIO BACARDI & A VISIT TO EL MUSEO NACIONAL DE BELLAS ARTES
Two (more) sights for those interested in architecture and the arts.
Where Havana Vieja meets central Havana, just two streets down from El Floridita, is another photo opportunity for travellers who love Art Deco architecture. Edificio Bacardi (the Bacardi Building) was finished in 1930, and was once the lavish headquarters of Cuba’s rum royalty. Bacardi rum was wildly popular for decades but when Castro’s revolution took hold of the island in the 1960s, Bacardi moved its operations abroad. For that reason, Bacardi rum cannot be found at bars or grocery stores in Cuba today. Rival Havana Club is now widely considered as the island’s premier rum…
One street away from Edificio Bacardi, you’ll find the National Art Collection. This is amongst the best museums in the city so, if you have an interest in the arts, it’s worth spending a couple of hours here (especially when the midday heat kicks in). The Arte Cubano section of the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes is another great example not only of the love that Cubans have for the arts but also their talent!
A VISIT TO EL MUSEO DE LA REVOLUCION
Just across the street from the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes is perhaps the most iconic museum in the island, The Museo de la Revolucion. Housed in deposed dictator Fulgencio Batista’s former palace, it has the lavish ceilings and bullet holes to prove it. The museum features memorabilia highlighting the island’s modern history and commemorating the life of the two men whose names have become synonymous with the island, Fidel Castro and Ernesto Che Guevara.
Part of the museum is the Monumento Granma, the very same boat that brought Castro and Che to the island to start the revolution. The museum’s gardens also feature the airplanes used to repulse the CIA-backed Bay of Pigs invasion as well as Castro’s tank.
All in all, the Museo de la Revolucion is brimming with all the stories that put Cuba at the forefront of worldwide history for decades and added to the allure that the island holds. In my opinion, this is a must-see for everyone visiting Havana.
A WALK ALONG EL PASEO DEL PRADO
Continuing west, you are bound to come across the Prado (officially known as Paseo de Marti). This historical treelined promenade dates back to the 1850s and stretches all the way to the Malecon. Its buildings were once home to Havana’s richest and most influential citizens. The area began to decline in the early 20th century when many ill reputed businesses set up shop here.
Today, the crumbling facades of so many glorious buildings host from paladars (family-run restaurants) to schools and everything in between. The Paseo de Prado is typically filled with Habaneros going about their daily business as well as travellers taking a stroll.
A WALK AROUND EL CAPITOLIO NACIONAL
While walking along the Paseo del Prado, you can’t miss the Capitolio Nacional de la Habana (National Capitol of Cuba). Usually referred to as El Capitolio, this enormous building was built in the 1920s as the new presidential and governmental palace. The fact that it resembles the Capitol in Washington DC is not an accident. It is another example of the ‘Americanisation’ that begun in the early 1900s when the US effectively took over from Spain as Cuba’s colonial master. Before the revolution, this was the home of the National Congress.
Today, El Capitolio houses the Cuban Academy of Sciences and the National Library of Science. While we were visiting Cuba, there were extensive restoration works going on. We did not get a chance to see the grandiose interiors or the enormous Statue of the Republic but, it’s probably worth having a look. The 15m (49ft) tall gold statue of a young woman dressed in a tunic with a helmet, shield and lance weighs 30 tons and is the 3rd largest indoor statue in the world.
A RIDE IN A VINTAGE CAR AROUND EL PLAZA DE LA REVOLUCION
Outside the Capitolio, but in other central locations too, shiny 1950s limousines (Buicks, Chevrolets, Chryslers etc) are waiting to take visitors for tours around the city. A ride in a vintage car was one of the most fun things we did during our trip to Cuba! It is definitely one the best things to do in Havana. Not only will you get to ride in a beautiful vintage car but, also, see several parts of the city that would be harder to visit otherwise.
Another great thing about this experience is that it needs zero organising. For us, it was simply a matter of picking the car that looked the coolest amongst all the beautiful cars parked outside the Capitolio and having a chat with the driver! He asked us whether we wanted to go anywhere in particular, proposed several routes and gave us very reasonable prices. Needless to say, a drive along the Malecon is a must-do while in Havana as is a pitstop in Plaza de la Revolucion. After we visited those, the driver took us to one of Havana’s parks to finish off the ride with a bit of greenery and shade.
A DRIVE ALONG THE MALECON & VEDADO’S HOTEL ZONE
Moving west along the Malecon (more on that below) lead us to the leafy suburb of Vedado. This is a primarily residential district though the majority of the buildings that face the seafront are hotels or government buildings. The most famous of them is the Hotel Nacional. The stunning art deco building will definitely remind you of Miami’s South Beach. In fact, the whole of Vedado was loosely modelled on Miami. Anyway, there are quite a few interesting stories about many of the buildings here that our driver happily shared. We also saw the Black Flag monument outside the US Interests’ section as well as the Monumento al Maine dedicated to the ‘victims sacrificed by imperialist voracity in its eagerness to seize the island of Cuba’. Along the Malecon, as almost everywhere in Havana, every brick, stone and piece of concrete has an interesting story to tell.
ABOUT PLAZA DE LA REVOLUCION
This is an interesting place but a stark contrast to the charming neighbourhoods of Havana Vieja and central Havana. It is a vast square surrounded by bleak concrete government buildings. If it weren’t for the giant portrait of Ernesto Che Guevara, you’d think that you are in Moscow or east Berlin. In the centre of everything, the Monumento Jose Marti houses an informative museum and viewing platform.
SUNSET ON THE MALECON
The Malecon, the legendary 5km (3mile) seafront of Havana, is where you’ll find the most diverse cross section of Havana enjoying the incredible mix of sea and city views. Everyone from local families and elderly folks to teenage Habaneros head to the Malecon in order to see and to be seen. There are, of course, a lot of travellers as well. In fact, this was the only place where we encountered quite a few ‘hustlers’. Thankfully, a simple no sufficed for them to keep going. Regardless of that, you can’t visit Havana and not take a stroll along the Malecon.
The Malecon is lined with dilapidated but beautiful buildings and the renovation plans for the city include not only these but the eroded walkway itself. Apparently, in winter, when a cold front blows in, the waves crashing over the sea wall are massive. The road is often closed off to cars at these times, meaning you can walk right down the middle of the empty thoroughfare -at your own risk!
Close to sunset is probably the most comfortable and evocative time to walk along the seafront. Keep in mind though that golden hour does not last very long in the Caribbean! Once you are tired of walking, catch a coco taxi (the Cuban version of a tuk-tuk) and ask to be dropped at Hotel Nacional. It’s time for a cocktail.
COCKTAIL HOUR IN HOTEL NACIONAL
Probably Cuba’s most famous hotel, the Hotel Nacional counts Frank Sinatra, Ava Gardner and Clark Gable amongst its many famous guests. While we preferred to stay in Havana Vieja, we couldn’t resist visiting Hotel Nacional (twice!) for cocktails. I would definitely recommend that you do too. The hotel’s serene gardens, incredible bay views, landmark 1920s art deco architecture and scrumptious cocktails make for a perfect first and last cocktail in Havana, especially during one of the iconic Malecon sunsets…
FINAL THOUGHTS
What a marvellous time we had in Havana! It is truly one of the most unique and memorable city trips I have ever taken! I dare say that even though there is so much more to the rest of Cuba, and we loved our time in Trinidad and Cayo Coco, if you are short on time or not much of a beach person, it’s worth visiting Cuba just for Havana alone (aim for a direct flight from central America or even London, Paris, Madrid).
Whether for a short or longer trip, if this one of a kind, magical city is not on your bucket list, it’s time that you add it in, and close to the top please!
This is not a sponsored post & I am not affiliated with any of the hotels, restaurants or organisations mentioned.
A DEEP DIVE INTO CUBA
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